Agnes Water (Town of 1770)

Meet a guy from my volleyball club (Mark Dijkstra) and have been traveling with him for the last three days. We hit up Agnes Water, which is right near 1770 (where cook landed in 1770). I go surfing here. Surfing is awesome. I thought it would suck, it didn't. It's hard as shit, but I just kept on going out and trying to catch my first wave. I applied all my wisdom I've picked up while learning other sports. Stuff like "don't take it too seriously, beginner's mind, persist, don't think too much, let your body learn the feeling of the technique". In three hours I must've caught 5 really solid waves where I surfed into the beach. Swallowed a ton of sea water and my eyes were burning from the salt water, but I felt content at the end, I really love sport.

Have some really good discussions with my new found Dutch buddy (topics: politics, society, globalization, philosophy, environment and traveling). Also meet a really cute Canadian bar-girl there. I do love them Canadian girls. She was athletic and everything. Turned out she had a boyfriend :(

There was a photgrapher present at the surfing who was supposed to send me pics of my epic deeds, but he, did not.